Camino del Diablo Day 2 and 3

Day 2 dawned clear and bright. After a breakfast of egg's, bacon, and tortilla's we headed west. The road changed from bedrock to sand in the beginning. In just a few miles we arrived at O'Neils grave. Apparently old O'Neil was looking for a burro when he stumbled and fell head first into a small pond. Somehow he managed to drown. Certainly he's the only person in this dry country to drown. His grave is just off the road. It must be customary to leave a little memento on his grave since there were many American coins, bullets, shotgun shells, lighters, and even a Denver Bronco key chain fob. We all contributed something, said goodbye to O'Neil, and resumed our trip. Shortly after O'Neils grave we came to the spot the Ranger had warned us about. Luckily there was no standing water, but the mud must have been about 8 inches deep. Driver John finally had to put the Jeep into 4 wheel drive. Since his Jeeps wheels extend about 2 inches beyond the fenders we had a constant stream of mud flying past our side windows.
After we made it through the mud bog we returned to dry sand with the Growler Mountains off to our north. We could see sand dunes off in the distance but never actually drove over a dune. Our next road surface was a portion of the Pinacate lava field. I can only imagine how hot this particular spot must be in the summer when it's over 120 degrees with the sun beating down on all the black lava.
For lunch we pulled into a wash so that we wouldn't have to move if another vehicle happened to appear. As we were exiting the wash our travel mates jammed on the brakes and walked over to a mesquite tree. John and I followed not knowing what we'd find. At the base of the tree was the skull of a Bighorn Ram. The only other part that remained was the spine. The ram died recently because there was still flesh on part of the skull. I think we would have preferred to see this magnificent animal standing alive up on the side of a mountain.
Our road changed again from sand to rock as we travelled over hills. Soon we arrived at Tule Well where there is an old adobe casita, a couple of campsites and a very well used picnic table. The old casita has a fireplace, table, and a floor to sleep on if needed. It also had a visitor log where it said that two other sets of travelers had already been there that day. They must have come in from the west and gone back the same way because we sure didn't meet them. On a corner shelf in the casita visitors had left items for future visitors. I remember seeing a can of beer, some coins, a few rocks, a lighter, and a broken piece of mirror with what appeared to be two lines of cocaine. On the wall there was something written in Spanish. According to Jim, our Spanish speaker, it said "Your mother doesn't live here!! Clean up after yourselves!" A very cool place.
At this point we left the Cabeza Prieta NWR and we entered the Barry Goldwater Air Force Bomb Range. We were now driving on fine white sand. Our destination for the evening were the waterholes at Tinajas Atlas pass. These "high tanks" are nine watering holes contained in naturally formed rocks that start low in the mountains and then are positioned higher and higher. When there is sufficient rain the upper tanks fill and overflow into the next lower tank. Travellers of yesteryear relied on these tanks for much needed water. Many times they would arrive and the lower, easy to reach tanks would be dry so they would have to climb up to the next. Many people died in this area, only a few feet from much needed water, but to weak to climb to the next tank. We found the tanks in the dusk and quickly set about getting the tents up. Our campsite was elevated and we had a fantastic view of the desert floor and mountains to the north. I've often wondered where the middle of nowhere is. I can now say that I've been there. I might mention here that as we traveled west we saw fewer and fewer Border Patrol vehicles. Once we entered the Goldwater Range we saw very little Border Patrol presence. Apparently even the illegals know not to come this way. Our supper consisted of big pork chops, baked potato's, shrimp and a shared Snickers candy bar. We didn't hear any coyotes, missed our little friend the Kangeroo Rat, but the stars were even better due to the clear skies. We headed to bed about 11:00 PM and none of us woke up until 5:00 AM. Wow, this sleeping on the ground can be done without pain!
During breakfast we were treated to a mock dogfight between two jets over the Goldwater Range, complete with the first jet dropping flares to confuse the second jets heat seeking missiles. After breakfast John and Gary climbed up to some of the middle tanks.
We got back on the road and in just a few miles began to see signs of civilization.
Soon we saw I-8 at Welton, AZ. Gary and Jim and John and I met at the Dateland, AZ exit on I-8 where we celebrated our journey with a palm date flavored milk shake. Sure tasted good. Gary and Jim headed straight back to Tucson. John and I went back to Ajo to re-unite the Jeep with the truck and trailer. What a great trip. Thanks to Gary and Jim for being great travel mates. Thanks to John for inviting me.